Two Buckets on a Mission

Is it possible two cheap plastic buckets can help reduce global malnutrition?

Sounds crazy, but there's some amazing technology that can be created by combining two cheap 5-gallon buckets along with some other low cost or free materials. The result is a low cost foolproof system of growing food.

Benefits of the 2-bucket system:
1) 50% to 80% reduction in water usage.
2) 100% reduction in weeds...never pull a weed or use herbicides.
3) Once planted, very little attention is required.
4) Foolproof: People with very little training (like us!) can reap bountiful harvests.
5) All you need are a few square meters of space...even rooftops, industrial wastelands, etc

Two Brothers on a Mission
Our vision: Turning the rooftops and abandoned industrial wastelands of developing countries into mini-farms filled with green growing vegetables. The goal of this website is to share with the world the simple steps required to build the 2-bucket system.

To the right of your screen are a series of "How To" videos we created to get you started.

Please visit our other project where you can perform scientific research on clean energy while watching TV (really).

Above photo from Green Roof Growers

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What are you selling?

Max Buster
A lot of people ask "Who are you and what are you selling?"

It started when our dad (we're in high school) bought an EarthBox® planter. We read in the sales materials that the United Nations was using Earthbox® planters to teach people in developing nations an excellent way to grow food. This sounded like a great project, but we thought it could be made even better by using locally sourced free or low cost recycled materials. That's what got us started.
Also, watering Global Buckets by hand become a BIG pain everyday so we explored ideas on how to automate the watering job using atmospheric pressure. Our system works great! This entire summer we only spent about 20 minutes dealing with water. Previously, we spent about 10 minutes a day. Using some engineering and physics to create wonderful efficiencies was the most rewarding part of the project.

Grant Buster
What's next? Our eyes were opened when Curt Lindley, a Peace Corp worker in Mandeville, Jamaica, wrote to us and pondered if an alternative design could be created which didn't use 5-gallon buckets. Why? Curt wrote that 5- gallon buckets are so valued by the people of Mandereville that they would be very hesitant to put holes in the buckets. So, now our energy is directed at creating an alternative system using totally valueless materials. Whoops! Now we'll have to change the name to "Global Worthless Materials". Click here for our new Garbage Gardening summer 2010 experiment.

Grant & Max

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Grow Bags Combined with AquaValve

Following is a brilliant design from Ben Frimmer of Philadelphia.  Ben's system combines Grow Bags with a wonderful product called an AquaValve. (AquaValve's Home Page).   If anyone can figure out how to make an AquaValve (an inverted float valve) on the cheap let us know.  Read here and here to learn how the AquaValve works.  Here's Ben's system in his own words:

When I saw that you are using reusable shopping bags on your website, I had to get in touch!!! With that said, here's a design that may just help you out...

Click to enlarge


































1st thing: If you haven't heard of the Aquavalve or an Autopot, check them out on the web. They make an INVERTED float valve. This creates a "flood-and-drain" effect, allowing the soil to dry out, increasing air flow, stimulating vigorous root development, preventing "root rot" and other diseases, etc. This too attaches to a gravity fed automatic watering system....

So here's how to build it:

1. Place "Grow Bags" into any LEVEL container that doesn't leak (only needs to be about 2 inches deep). Can be as wide as you want as long as it's level. This will serve as the "floodplain." Get creative and keep it cheap! (lids of plastic totes, a dirt "box" lined with a garbage bag, any container will do as long as it doesn't leak!)

2. Use the plastic from garbage bags to cover the Grow Bags and make your X's. (I use string because it's cheap and easy) Just make sure to only cover the top and not the sides. Your babies need air!

3. Place Aquavalve onto bottom of "floodplain" and attach 1/4" tubing to gravity reservoir and Aquavalve. (Make sure the reservoir is 2-3 feet above your level floodplain or it won't work). Glue the valve down, place a rock on it, anything so it doesn't float.

***At this point, your reservoir is going to flood the "floodplain" with about 1 inch of water. The water wicks into the Grow Bags, the plants drink what they want. When the water level reaches about 1mm, the valve reopens and the floodplain floods again. So you can be done at this point, just refill the reservoir by hand when it gets low (about once every 2 weeks). But if you're like me and you're too lazy to do that, go to step #4....

4. Go to any hardware store and buy a replacement float valve for a toilet. (less than $10). Hook that up to any household water supply line, and secure it to your reservoir. (Check out how your toilet works to see exactly what I mean). As the plants drink the water, they will "flush" the reservoir and it will automatically refill itself! You never have to water again. Ever!

My system at home has 32 Grow Bags, set out as 2 separate 5'x5' "floodplains", 16 Grow Bags and 1 Aquavalve in each one. The system is in our greenhouse, so we grow all of our own produce year round! The whole thing, all materials included, cost me $47 to build. ($30 of this was purchasing the Aquavalves and the tubing!) I have used it for 3 growing seasons, and it works flawlessly. The only maintenance you need to do (besides pruning and harvesting of course) is flushing the lines and replacing the soil / fertilizer each growing season.

I use COMPOST TEA as my fertilizer and it works amazing, season after season. Just put a few handfuls of compost into some cheesecloth and place it into the reservoir like a tea bag. That's it! Just replace it with new compost every 2 weeks or so and put the used compost back into the pile or in your grow bags. Cheap and reusable liquid fertilizer. Organic farms have been doing this for centuries!

Here is a list of materials I forgot to put on the diagram:
1.  Aquavalve - $25 USD
2.  1/4" Tubing - $2
3.  Grommett - $1
4.  Standard Toilet Float Valve - $7
5.  Garden Hose - $5
6.  Rubbermaid 25-Gallon Reservoir - $8

So all the materials, most available at your local hardware store, cost $23.  You do have to order the Aquavalve online.

The rest, like Grow Bags, Potting Soil, Compost, and the Floodplain are up to each individual's ingenuity to get and/or build.  In my area, Philadelphia, I got all of these for free.  

{A cheap idea for a floodplain is to dig a small 2 inch deep "box" in your backyard using a level.  Then you can go to the local Walmart / Home Depot / Costo, etc. and take all of their used Forklift Palettes.  Then you can line your "box" with free wood, and place a layer of garbage bags on it to make it watertight.} 

Anyway, you get the point.  All you need is a level surface for the Aquavalve to do it's thing.

Ben & Becca

Garbage Gardening

We learned from our Peace Corp friend, Curt Lindley, that materials that we take for granted here in the USA are often very hard to find and expensive in developing nations. Try to find inexpensive sphagnum peat, vermiculite or perlite in downtown New Dehli.

Therefore, we've begun to experiment with garbage and other free materials that could replace the potting mix in our traditional Global Bucket. We're testing plastic bottles, newspapers, cardboard, old books, discarded clothing, Coke cans and sticks.

How could cloth or newspapers replace potting mix? Well, a plant's roots only require three essential items:
1) water
2) air
3) nutrients

Water
Based on our testing, we've discovered that rolled-up newspapers and t-shirts, for example, are excellent at wicking water from the bottom of the bucket up to the top of the bucket where the plant's root ball will be located. Will the newspapers disintegrate too quickly? Perhaps, but maybe the plant's water seeking roots will reach the bottom water reservoir before the wicking newspapers fall apart.

Air
By placing a bundle of sticks or a cut-up plastic bottles or Coke cans between the rolled-up newspapers or t-shirts we believe the aeration requirement will be met.

Nutrients
We'll be trying two different approaches. The first approach is to sprinkle some timed-released fertilizer (eg Osmocote) and dolomite in the newspapers/t-shirts as they are rolled-up. The second idea to to use liquid fertilizer in the water along with some dolomite sprinkled in the newspapers/t-shirts.

Will it work? We have no idea!

We'll be testing our new "worthless" system during the summer of 2010.

Click the photos for larger images.

Some materials to be tested: (pictured left to right):
1) Burlap or Hessian Cloth (coarse woven cloth made from jute)
2) Swamp cooler material (not practical, but we were curious)
2) T-shirt (with sticks to provide aeration)
3) T-shirt (with cut-up 1 L bottle to provide aeration)
4) Polyester (micro-fibers)




The wicking test results:
1) Burlap : D (maybe because "fancy" colored USA cloth burlap)
2) Swamp cooler material : F
2) T-shirt (with sticks to provide aeration) : A
3) T-shirt (with cut-up 1 L bottle to provide aeration): A
4) Polyester (micro-fiber): F (maybe because very loose fibers)




T-shirts wrapped around cut-up 1 L bottles...looks very promising.









Testing newspaers as wicks. Results: Excellent Wicking!








Below is a picture of our first Garbage Bucket. Newspapers have been crumpled-up into balls and tightly packed between plastic 1 liter bottles. We sliced the bottles with four vertical cuts from top to bottom. Then we stepped on the bottles to flatten them somewhat. The bottles provide a very airy mass, but are strong enough to stand vertically and provide support to the newspapers. We sprinkled dolomite (1 tablespoon ("Tbsp") (equals 15 milliliters) ) and a basic 10-10-10 fertilizer with micro-nutrients (2 Tbsp) at three different lawyers. We didn't use rolled-up newspapers like in the above picture, because we didn't see a good way to place the fertilizer and dolomite.

The questions we have are:
1) Will the fertilizer be dispersed enough so the plant's roots won't burn?
2) Will the wet newspapers "melt" into one big glob so the roots won't be able to get to the airy
bottles?

5-21-10: Filling up the bucket. (click on image)



That's 10-10-10 fertilizer and dolomite on the newspapers.









Fully packed. The 1 liter bottles are buried vertically.

5-22-10 Update: After 24 hours, water had wicked-up from the bottom reservoir (1 gallon) up to the second from top layer of newspapers.

5-23-10 Update: After 36 hours, the top newspapers were moist. Below the top layer, the newspapers were very moist. We wonder if this would provide enough water for a tomato plant.

6-1-10 Update: Planting our first newspaper bucket.










We'll be irrigating using the PVC tube into the reservoir, but we directly watered the plant when we first planted it.


Planting a tomato in newspapers. The "dirt" potting mix is from the container that the seedling came in.









Our Garbage Garden.

We're using white plastic, rather than black plastic, because we've come to realize that Boulder Colorado is one of the sunniest places in the USA. Last year we used black plastic, but it created extreme soil temperatures.



 
Update 7-18-10:  The results of the newspaper and cloth "potting mix" have been disappointing.  The plants are still alive, but they are not thriving.  The plants in our other summer 2010 experiments, ollas combined with Global Buckets and Grow Bags are doing excellent.

Update September 5, 2010:  The final results of the Garbage Garden were disappointing.  In fact, we're too embarrassed to print photos of these still living, but sad looking, pathetic plants.  We believe the idea can still work, but we need to re-engineer our system.  Check back during the summer of 2011 for some new ideas.

Update 10-26-10:  Larry Kurtz from Omaha, Nebraska wrote to us with a brilliant idea:
I think you gave up too early on newspaper. You're trying to provide a
rooting medium for the plants.  I'm assuming that there's too much air and
not enough "root to cellulose contact" to effectively feed the plants.
Shredding the newspaper to finer particles should provide more nutrients to
the plants.  My interest in newspaper is the repurposing of a recyclable
that doesn't have the "green" downside of either peat (sustainability) or
coir (carbon footprint of delivery...salt problems, etc.).




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OLD : Olla Irrigation (Clay Pot System)

We've been inspired by Fan Sheng-chih Shu. His writings from the first century BC describe a method of irrigation where a unglazed clay pot is buried in the soil. When filled with water the clay pot turns into an amazing high-tech device. The micro-pores of the clay pot allows water to seep into the surrounding soil. A key characteristic is that the water seepage is regulated by the water needs of any nearby plant. When the plant's water demands have been fulfilled and the soil is moist, the water seepage from the clay pot will stop. When the soil becomes dry, water seepage will begin again. This seepage is controlled by soil moisture tension. It's automatic irrigation without timers or electronic sensors!

Water Efficiency Combined with Liquid Fertilizer
Some designs (see below) allow you to bury the olla in the soil or potting mix. This allows the delivery of water directly to the plant's roots. No water is wasted. This is excellent for arid climates like in many parts of Africa. Finally, you may supply the olla with water mixed with liquid fertilizer. You'll only need about 1/4 to 1/2 of the fertilizer you would normally use. Although liquid fertilizer is more expensive than granular, it may end up costing less because of the tremendous efficiency of the delivery of the fertilizer directly to the plant's roots.

Combining Ollas with Global Buckets
Only one bucket is required and the use of power tools for drilling and cutting of buckets is eliminated. It's much more fun to caulk (required for clay pots) than to drill. We've begun (summer 2010) the testing of ollas in Global Buckets. So far we've had excellent results.

How to build your own Olla Global Bucket system:
Step 1: Build the clay pot. It's easy! Just glue two unglazed flower pots together.
Step 2: Bury your clay pot into a bucket with just the top of the clay pot exposed. Use potting mix with dolomite.
Step 3: Keep the clay pot filled with water. After a month of hand watering (boring!), we're designing an automatic watering system (see below).

Step 1: Build an Olla
Seal the hole in what will become the bottom section of the clay pot. We bought a ceramic floor tile from Home Depot for 99 cents and broke it up into little pieces. Apply lots of waterproof silicon caulk around the opening and then stick a piece of the broken floor tile over the hole. We also caulked the other side (pot's exterior) of this hole with more silicon caulk just to ensure that leakage won't be a problem.




Next you'll need to attach the two clay pots together.

If you're using Gorilla Glue (as we do) you'll need to lightly wet one of the pots as shown in this picture.







We first use 100% waterproof Gorilla Glue. We let the Gorilla Glue dry overnight. We then put heavy amounts of silicon caulk over the connection (the Gorilla Glue leaves lots of tiny gaps). The end result is not very pretty, but it's watertight!






The finished product. We painted the top of the Ollas that will be exposed to sunlight with white paint. Since the top is now painted or glazed, evaporation will be greatly reduced. We learned this the hard way.






If you click on these pictures to enlarge them, you'll see where the potting mix is moist from the olla.

Ollas (Clay Pots) in Developing Nations
This is an excellent Phd thesis from a student at the University of Pretoria on the use of clay pots in developing nations. Lots of great information.

This research paper is from the OAS (Organization of American States). It also relates to clay pot's use in developing nations.



Automated Olla Irrigation
(Note: We're still testing this design. No guarantees of success.)

Newest Design : 6-29-10 : Still Testing.....
The goal of this design is simplicity, leak-free smaller ollas and gravity feed (no siphons).

Materials:
a) 1/4" poly pipe
b) 1/4" "T"
c) 1/4" x 1 1/4" Fender Washer
d) Silicon Caulk
e) Plumbing Epoxy Putty (it's waterproof, easy to handle and safe for humans)
f) Terra Cotta Pot and Saucer


We used plumbing epoxy putty for everything, except when we used silicon caulk to attach and seal the saucer to the pot. We used two brands of plumbing epoxy putty. In the pictures, one brand is white and the other is gray.
That's white silicon caulk between the pot and saucer.

This week we'll attach a series of these ollas to a gravity fed 55-gallon barrel for the final testing.



1st Attempt at Automated Olla Irrigation
Result : Leaks!
There appears to be some water leaking where the 1/4" poly pipe enters the 7/32" holes. We're beginning to believe that the silicon caulk doesn't adhere 100% to the slick poly pipe. We are looking into alternatives.










We've modified most of our clay pots to implement our automatic clay pot water refilling system.

Step 1: Drill two holes in what will become the top section of the clay pot. Do this before you glue the two pots together. Use a 7/32" concrete drill bit. Later you'll be inserting 1/4" irrigation tubing into these two holes.

Step 2: You will also need to seal the the top drain hole that exists in the original pot. Do this before you glue the two pots together. Seal it like we sealed the bottom hole (ie silicon caulk and broken floor tile).

Because we modified our top pot after they were glued together (not recommended) they're really ugly!

A 4" clay pot is buried. One 1/4" tube is the water feed. The second 1/4" tube allows air to flow out when the pot is filling with water. Once the clay pot is filled with water, water travels through this second tube to the next clay pot in the series.

The 4" olla is completely buried.









This is a 6" olla. It takes up a large amount of space. We were unable to completely bury it.










This post will be updated throughout the summer of 2010 as we implement the olla system in Global Buckets.


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Experimental Design : Colander

Colander Design using One Bucket (click on pictures to enlarge)

You'll need:
A) colander (plastic and approximately 10 1/4" in diameter)
B) 1" PVC (24" in length)
C) 5-gallon bucket (only one is needed)
D) 1/2" poly irrigation pipe (2' length)
E) plastic cutting tools (Best: Drill with 1 3/8" & 3/4" hole saws, Alternative: razor knife, metal shears)


4 Easy Steps to Build

1. Go to a discount store (eg Dollar Tree) and buy a plastic colander with an approximate 10 1/4" diameter (10 1/4" is the width at the bottom of a typical 5-gallon bucket) for about $1.00US. Cut the protruding handles (if any) off the colander.

2. Watering Pipe. To get water into the reservoir use a 1" PVC pipe, 24" in length. With a 1 3/8" hole saw or another cutting tool, drill or cut off 3 or 4 of the plastic strips in the top or near the top of the colander. The watering pipe will go into this hole down into the reservoir. Cut a notch in the end of the 1" PVC pipe so water will easily flow into the reservoir.

3. Firmly push the colander (upside down, like an upside down bowl, so it forms a dome) into the 5-gallon bucket until it reaches the bottom. If it's a tight squeeze, you can cut small inverted V shaped notches in the colander's rim so it can flex and fit better.

4. Water Overflow / Air Holes. You'll have to create a water overflow/air "tunnel" from inside the colander out through the potting mix and out through a hole on the side of the bucket.
Drill a 3/4" hole in the side of the colander about 1/2" to 1" below the top of the colander (see picture with water dyed blue). Next drill a 3/4" hole on the side of the bucket at a height so the poly pipe will be horizontal. Stick a piece of 1/2" poly irrigation pipe (you could alternatively use a McDonalds or similar drinking straw with smaller holes) through the hole on the bucket's wall and into the colander's dome. There should be about a 1/2" to 1" of air space in the dome above the drainage/air pipe. This will provide a layer of 1/2" to 1" of air for the plant's roots. The pipe will serve as the overflow drain and air path. You want to get air in, and excess water out. You may want to repeat this step with a pipe and hole on the other side of the bucket, as seen in the picture, so you'll have a backup air/water overflow hole in case the primary pipe clogs or fails.

You're done! Just fill with potting mix and plant as described in our videos. As you fill the bucket up with potting mix, firmly pack down the potting mix (like in our planting video) surrounding the colander so water will wick well.

Advantages/Disadvantages/Thoughts: Cheap, about $4.00 to $5.00 US. Only one bucket is used and your time spent drilling holes is reduced by 75%. Like the traditional Global Bucket, it does take a lot of time gathering the materials and setting up, but there should be a time saving over the traditional Global Bucket. This colander system will have a smaller air surface for aeration that the traditional Global Bucket. If there is too much wicking (ie soggy soil) for your plants, you can drill a hole(s) in the side of the bucket below your existing poly pipe hole. This should lower the height of the water level and thus a reduction in the wicking area, but your reservoir will be reduced.

Automatic Watering (like in our irrigation videos): Run the 1/4" tube down the fill tube into the reservoir.


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